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Bass Fishing - The Carolina Rig

Author:
Bobby Ivie

Most of my years of fishing for bass, I have been devoted to the Texas Rig. I had little understanding of the need for the Carolina Rig. Until lately...

New fishing situations and conditions I have encountered have shown me the value of this setup.

Right off the bat, I can tell you that one value of the Carolina Rig is more action from the bait. Since the bait is not quickly dropping to the bottom, it tends be more lively.

It is great for situations where the bass aren't taking other baits because of weeds and visibility. Pulling one of these rigs over a bed of grass can be extremely rewarding.

It can be fished in any depth of water, but it seems most people use it in 8' of water or less off islands, humps, coves adjacent to deep water.

The difference between the Texas Rig and the Carolina Rig is where the sinker is. In a Texas Rig, the sinker is a slip sinker that rides freely on the line with nothing else between the rod and the bait. In a Carolina Rig, there is a swivel or something else to allow a leader between the weight and the bait.

Both are used with plastic baits. The hook is usually embedded into the body of the plastic, making it virtually weedless. This is what drove me to love plastics, particularly worms.

The typical setup is to pass the line through a slip sinker then tie it to a swivel. Sinker weights can vary; usually a light sinker (3/8 to 1/2 ounce) for a shorter leaders, and heavier sinkers (1/2 ounce or more) for longer leaders.

Next, tie your leader onto the other end of the swivel. If you are new to this you might want to start with a shorter leader until you get used to casting it. Usually anglers use a leader of 1 1/2' to 3'. If you are fishing deeper, you will probably want to go longer; maybe even as much as 6 or 7'.

Now tie the leader onto your hook. A size 2 or 3 worm hook is best, particularly one with a twist in it to aid in hookset. Once you have the hooked tied on, run the hook tip through the end of the head of the plastic and push it in about a quarter of an inch. Now run the hook tip out of the plastic bait and push the bait up the hook towards the eye. Now you can bury the tip of the hook into the bait near the abdomen or egg sac.

Some people push it on through and snug the hook tip near the body (on the backside). This allows for better hook set, but results in more snags. I like to push it through just before it breaks out of the back where I can feel that it will pop through easily. If you do this, be sure to set the hook hard to penetrate the plastic.

Presentation will vary. Let the lunkers tell you what they want. Try swimming it, pumping it, jiggling it, move it up and down, back and forth sideways, or drag it slowly through the weeds by starting at the 10 o'clock position and slowly pulling it up the 12 o'clock position then letting it falling while reeling in the slack. A very slow and steady retrieve can be deadly at times.

Sometimes you will feel a bump or a hard strike, but more often a pull, or something might just feel different (heavy, mushy), or you may feel nothing at all when you should. Watch the slack. Keep contact with the bait. If slack comes in the line for no reason, or you feel the weights dragging across something when you didn't move the link, set the hook. Set the hook, set the hook, set the hook. It's free.

Which plastics are best? Probably all of them at different times. A short plastic, like the french fry might be a good place to start. I recommend lively baits that float and have a garlic scent. You should do well with worms, lizards, crawfish or anything else that you have confidence in.

Many people love the Carolina Rig in the wind. Probably because it's easier to keep the slack tight and it gives more action to the bait. They are also great in the heat of the day road beds.

Have fun with them.

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By Bobby Ivie

Bobby Ivie is an avid fishman and owner of Fishing-Hunting-Camping.com. He makes the biggest part of his living on the Internet, NetBizWorkshop.net

This article may be reprinted as long as this source box is added and the source box hyperlinks are kept intact.
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If you like the article above, you may be interested in the following article which is also related to Bass Fishing...

Spinnerbait Fishing Tactics for Spotted Bay Bass
Like most fishermen my age I originally learned about spinnerbait fishing for largemouth bass with my Dad. My class room was the back of an aluminum rental boat drifting the brush flats and rocky points of Irvine Lake in Orange County and Lake Cachuma in Santa Barbara, CA. Both lakes were renowned southern California bass fisheries in the 1960's and 70's. Later I refined my techniques from the business end of a Nitro bass boat fishing team tournaments in the waters of the mid west for Smallmouth bass and Muskie. In the last 30 years I have managed to refined my spinnerbait technique quite a bit. I now do most of my fishing from my kayak or a float tube but the target fish is still a bass albeit a distant saltwater cousin, the Spotted Bay Bass. The proving grounds are now Newport Harbor, the LA Breakwall and Mission Bay, San Diego. Most of the large harbors of Southern California's coast are filled with hungry spotted bass or sand bass that are just waiting to try this tasty treat. Keep your tackle choices simple I fish a 7' IM7 graphite baitcasting rod from Infinity Fishing Products, nothing fancy $49.95 retail. The rod is rated 8-15# test and has a 11" cork butt with a trigger grip and 4" cork fore grip. It's built with 1 foot Fugi SIC guides. I use an inexpensive Daiwa, low profile baitcasting reel. Basically the same setup you would use to throw spinnerbaits for largemouth bass with maybe slightly heavier line. Spotted bass have very sharp teeth and side plates on their heads. With a spinnerbait you don't have to worry about the teeth but you do have to worry about their head platting. Spots have a tendency to trash and roll on the bait. For this reason the money you spend on line is more important than any other expenditure. I use 10# P-line. I like its...
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